Chamonix and the surrounding towns are nestled amidst mountains, forming a narrow valley that extends from northeast to southwest. Chamonix is situated in the center of this valley. Les Praz, three kilometers to the northeast, is where our hiking journey begins, and Les Hourches, eight kilometers to the southwest, will be our hiking destination.
The Arve River flows through the valley and the town, adding warmth and vitality to this picturesque and charming small town. Thanks to its favorable conditions, mature cable car systems, and mountain signage, Chamonix is a hub for mountain hiking, trail running and outdoor activities during the summer, with its mild climate and lush green landscapes. In the winter, it is a renowned skiing paradise and vacation destination in Europe, having hosted the Winter Olympics in 1924.
Hongbo and I arrived in Chamonix in the afternoon . We stored our luggage at the Airbnb located in Les Praz and then took a bus to Chamonix. The public transportation within the town is convenient, and tourists staying in the town can enjoy free bus rides.
Chamonix's most famous attractions include Mont Blanc, which stands at an elevation of 4,810 meters, and the Aiguille du Midi, with an elevation of 3,842 meters. The cable car system that takes you to the top of Aiguille du Midi was completed in 1955 and was the world's highest cable car at the time, holding that record for twenty years. It still holds the record for the greatest vertical ascent, spanning from 1,035 meters to 3,842 meters. The ticket for the cable car costs 75 euros. We took the first cable car to reach halfway up the mountain and then transferred to the second cable car. The cable car ride was smooth and rapid, with breathtaking views of the snowy mountains coming into sight like a giant wall. The entire journey took only 20 minutes to reach the summit.
Once reach the summit, if you're interested, you can also take the Panoramic Mont-Blanc cable car on the other side of the mountain to reach Courmayeur, Italy (which is also one of the middle stops on our Tour du Mont Blanc hike).
The literal meaning of "Aiguille du Midi" is "Needle of the Mid-day," mainly because when viewed from the town's church, the sun reaches its peak on the summit exactly at noon. When seen from a distance, it appears like a towering rocket poised to launch into the sky. The design and construction of Aiguille du Midi actually originated in the early 1910s but went through intermittent challenges, including World War I, economic recessions, financial difficulties for the investment company, and significant technical obstacles. It also involved changes in the cable car route. Despite these hardships, it was finally completed in 1955 and has since become one of Chamonix's two major landmarks.
Ascending to the observation deck, we were greeted with a breathtaking view. Towering peaks, snow-covered glaciers, rugged mountains, meandering rivers, and the picturesque valley towns all unfold in a magnificent 360-degree panorama before us. It was truly a sight to behold and leaves one in awe!
This map depicts the main structure of the Aiguille du Midi observation deck. It includes the Vertical Space (where the museum is located), the Mont-Blanc Space (a spacious viewing platform), and Step in The Void (a glass suspended box), among other features.
Breathtaking mountain scenery indeed! "Breathtaking" is quite fitting in this context because at high altitudes with lower oxygen density, many people experienced varying degrees of shortness of breath and temporary dizziness. Behind us, the highest point among the snow-covered peaks was Mont Blanc, and for the next nine days, we’d be winding our way through the surrounding mountains. Today was probably the closest we'd get to admire it up close.
The mountain climbers were making their preparation inside this ice cave for their climbing expedition. From the following photos, you could also see two brave individuals standing on the barren mountaintop, possibly getting ready for their descent. The rugged and vegetation-free terrain of this peak looks like an incredibly challenging descent, leaving us spectators, who were looking at them in our great awe, to wonder how they would make their way down.
There was a long waiting line to enter the "Step in the Void" all-glass suspended box, it's hard not to feel a bit weak in the knees when gazing down at the thousand-meter-high mountain peaks beneath our feet. Regardless, this couple struck the most romantic pose.
Here, you'd find the world's highest-altitude mountaineering museum, showcasing the exploration journeys of some of the world's renowned mountaineers, with the most famous among them being Gaston Rebuffat. Rebuffat was one of the most celebrated French mountaineers of the 1940s and 1950s. He spent many years as a guide, leading numerous expeditions to climb various mountain ranges in the Alps. He was also a prolific writer, expressing the challenges and extreme joys of mountain climbing in his poems and mountaineering literature.
Some of his famous works include "Mont Blanc Massif," "Starlight and Storm," and others. Rebuffat's writings beautifully capture the hardships and the profound sense of joy and fulfillment experienced in high-altitude mountaineering.
Dizzying cliff climbing:
Base jumping from the summit with a parachute on their back:
Highline: Adventurers walking on a nylon rope between two mountain peaks, similar to tightrope walking.
Visiting Aiguille du Midi reminded me of our trip to Zermatt in Switzerland in 2019 when our family took the Matterhorn Paradise Glacier cable car. It’s interesting to make a comparison.
As mentioned earlier, Aiguille du Midi held the record for the world's highest cable car for twenty years after its completion in 1955. The current highest cable car in the world is the Matterhorn Paradise Glacier cable car in Switzerland. While the Matterhorn cable car may not be as steep as Aiguille du Midi, it offers stunning glacier views from the summit, allowing visitors to walk directly onto the glacier. Additionally, skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts can descend from the peak. Paragliders also take off from the Matterhorn summit, creating a beautiful spectacle in the sky.
Chamonix certainly lives up to its reputation as a tourist destination. With its exceptional natural surroundings, well-developed commercial infrastructure, and a plethora of restaurants and shops, each establishment finely decorated and adorned with flowers, it offers a charming and accessible experience. Strolling through a town like this, one can't help but admire and appreciate its beauty, enjoying the ease and delight it brings to visitors.
While we were still wandering around, we heard the music of a band coming from a restaurant, and a large crowd had gathered in front of it. It turns out that a band had set up a stage in front of the restaurant, and it seemed like they were about to hold a concert.
As everyone's attention was focused on the band performing on the stage, a clear and bright trumpet sound came from the rooftop across the street. Looking at each other with smiles, we realized that one of the band's trumpet players had somehow made their way to the roof of the building on the other side and was harmonizing with the rest of the band. The wonderful trumpet sound was so uplifting and elevating, adding an extra layer of brilliance to the performance.
I got the name of the band from their bulletin board. When I came back to the US and searched them up, it was fascinating to learn about the rich history of the Musikkapelle Partenkirchen band. Originating in the picturesque region of Garmisch-Partenkirchen in southern Bavaria, Germany (formed by the amalgamation of two towns, Garmisch and Partenkirchen), this band has a remarkable history dating back to 1883, making it 140 years old. Founded by a group of music enthusiasts from Partenkirchen, their mission has been to preserve and promote the traditional music of Partenkirchen. They participate in community celebrations, church events, weddings, and have become an integral part of local beer festivals, music festivals, Winter Olympics, and skiing celebrations. It's great to know that they are still active today, and you can even find their works on Apple Music.
If I was asked what was the most touching thing during all the previous trips, I would give you an answer right away without any hesitation: music. Music is indeed a universal language that has the power to touch the heart and create lasting memories during our travels. Whether it's the grandeur of a music festival, the spontaneity of street performances, or the precision and elegance of a well-organized band like the Musikkapelle Partenkirchen, music has a unique way of attracting people, igniting the atmosphere, and bringing communities together.
I remember singing along with the crowd on Swiss National Day in Zermatt in 2019 after our family went through an exhausting hike in the evening; I always thought about joining a street performance artist in Rome just a couple of months ago; and now being moved by the Musikkapelle Partenkirchen's performance in this charming town, it shows what a profound impact music can have on our travels. It's a beautiful reminder of how music transcends borders, races, and languages to connect with our most tender and grateful emotions. These are the moments that stay with us long after the journey is over.
Chamonix is such a charming little town. My friend and I regretted not doing enough research in advance and not allocating enough time here. The leisurely atmosphere, the allure of music, the joyful crowds, and the enchanting vibes made us lose track of time, as if in a dream...
By the time we realized it was getting late, and we needed to take the bus back to Les Praz, which was several kilometers away, it had already turned dusk. To make matters worse, our purchased eSIM card wasn't working, which meant we didn't know which bus to take or where to catch it, or even what time the buses ran. Eventually, we made it to a bus stop only to find out that the bus service on that line had already stopped. Frustrated, the two of us decided to walk back to Les Praz.
During the daytime, strolling along the Arve River in this beautiful town for three or four kilometers would have been a delightful experience. Despite Chamonix being a safe place, at this moment, we found ourselves without the internet, unsure of the specific direction, and with darkness settling in. We were worried that our Tour du Mont Blanc adventure, which was set to begin the next day, might get off to a rocky start. I regretted our indulgence and walked nervously in the darkness, using our phone flashlights.
About twenty or thirty minutes later, still not sure how far we were from our Airbnb hotel, then, in the distance, we saw the headlights of a car on a small road through the trees. Without hesitation, we rushed over, waving our phone flashlights to get their attention. The car stopped, and inside were a young couple with a baby. Thank goodness they spoke English. Initially, they tried to explain to us how far it was to Les Praz. But then, the lovely wife turned to her husband and said, "Why not just give them a ride?" What's more, they even knew the location of our Airbnb. My friend and I got in their car, and shortly after, they dropped us off right in front of our accommodation. We watched as they drove back in the direction they came from, realizing they had taken a detour just to help us. We knew that this extra drive would have taken us nearly half an hour to walk.. Watching them driving away, no words could express our sincere gratitude from the bottom of our hearts. Oftentimes, nature scenes make a place beautiful but heartfelt actions from kind-hearted people in the town would make it even more lovely and unforgettable.
The next morning, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at the hotel. The restaurant had an elegant ambiance, thoughtful decor, and offered a variety of items such as eggs, cheese, bacon, coffee, bread, croissants, jams, and more. It was a truly enjoyable experience!
We look forward to the first day of our Tour du Mont Blanc!
<<To be continued>>
